holidays

Hello 2010! I am in Chile still!

I've officially been in South America now for over four months. How do I feel about this? I don't think I'll ever be able to answer that question in words.

These past two weeks have been a wonder of travel and friends and food. I went up to Puerto Montt to meet Britain, who had been making her way down from Valparaíso, where we stayed in a beautiful cabaña overlooking the harbor and explored Los Alerces Andinos national park, famous for its preservation of these awesome, gigantic trees with curving roots that split off above ground. We found our way back to Ancud for Christmas, where I felt like I was collecting travelers and friends I have met over time--Margaret from Olmué, Roberto from Valpo, and Meg from New York! all came to celebrate Christmas, and Jerson and his brother Diego showed up the next day, in time for our adventure at the discotheque across the street. Christmas was full of fresh salmon, shellfish, wonderful amounts of homemade desserts, and wine, of course.

Since then, I've been winding through Chiloé, going on a wayward journey to lackluster Chepu which turned out to be not worth the incredible effort it took to get there (though the views were more than spectacular--who knew that one day I'd be walking through the most picturesque farmland ever, complete with baaing sheep...if Jefferson's utopia exists anywhere, it's here), all the way down to Quellon, and now back in Chiloé's capital, Castro, where I am now.

These two weeks have also been full of absurd and unexpected situations. On Christmas eve, I got a phone call from Juan Ignacio saying that the family who lives on the property would be coming to the house for a memorial service. Apparently, a 23-year-old worker at the farm had died that day, and everyone was coming to view the body and comfort the family. It was strange to be planning a festive Christmas with such grief present just two rooms away.

Also, we've had tons of luck hitchhiking to and through the island (with the exception of Chepu, where apparently no one goes, ever.). Riding in the backs of trucks through gorgeous Chilean countryside has got to be one of my favorite things in Chile so far. We've caught rides from all kinds of people, from a family blasting the Beatles all the way back to Puerto Montt, to a truck driver who yelled out the window at an old lady crossing the street in Castro, to sheep farmers transporting sheep who share our space atrás. It's taken a while for me to get used to standing on the side of the road waiting for a ride, but it also seems much more accepted here to take even foreign passengers.

Now I'm heading back to Ancud, having said goodbye to everyone who came down for the holidays (I still find it amazing that this somewhat rash decision to come to South America could have influenced peoples' lives so that they actually get into vehicles and come onto an island to see me), and have to figure out where I'm headed next... south south south or where? Quién sabe, the uncertainty is delicious.