do you know why the trees are so enormous in patagonia?

RAIN. And lots of it.

I have somehow managed to hitchhike all the way to Puyuhuapi, some 250km from Coyhaique, in my quest to see this hanging glaciar (ventisquero colgante) that's only 20km from here, but apparently hidden behind this neverending clouds. Que lástima, since I have to be back in Coyhaique tomorrow, but I have hope still.

There's too much to tell in this short time... I've found yet another welcoming group of friends in Coyhaique, thanks to the wonder that is Couchsurfing, with whom I've shared two whole roasted goats, windy sleeping places, fresh cherries off the tree, a rainy ride in the bed of a truck, and a fiesta linda with live music and a screen projected onto trees (what!). Javier, my very friendly host, also received three more couchsurfers my last night there, and what an evening of speaking Spanish with people from Chile, France, Italy, and Spain--with homemade noodles and clam sauce...!

Last week, I took off for Puerto Tranquilo, along perhaps the most beautiful road I've ever been on (waterfalls on every side, this strangely emerald green río flowing in every form, and the enormity of mountains everywhere--plus a magnificent view of Cerro Castillo, snow covered peaks resembling a castle), and encountered CAVES MADE OUT OF MARBLE IN A LAKE. Que ridiculo!! And got to meet two Canadians motorcycling across the world plus three Swiss folks doing the same in South America, who graciously welcomed me into their tents as the hostels were full of Israeli tour groups. I even got to take my first motorcycle ride--through PATAGONIA, for God's sake, can my luck get any better? Under the shadow of a massive glaciar and again next to a beautiful river, incredibly clean and powerful.

Now I'm spending some time with a bunch of Israelis, though I've given up trying to understand Hebrew, and we'll see what happens with this glaciar. Strangely, now that I finally feel like I can be in a large group of Chileans and actually understand most of what is going on, I'm feeling more homesick... I want my groups of friends again, as fabulous as temporary families are.

Also, a lot to think about: 80% of Chile's energy going to mines, the building of 12 dams by Spanish and other international companies, the fact that all the cell phone services and many of the banks are owned by Spain, the changing of culture through tourism, transitory relationships... but I need more time to ruminate, perhaps the rain will grow my thoughts as well.